FOR THE LOVE OF LEGENDS
(mythical traditions, rites, and folk festivals)
There’s a uniquely Modican way to lose oneself: not among the streets, but among the voices. Those that tell of ancient rites and myths that are repeated and renewed. To get lost here is to choose to enter the baroque era of tradition, where legends, rumors, and truths blend together, where every street seethes with shared, popular memory.
If you come to Modica for Holy Week, on Easter Sunday you’ll see Corso Umberto filled with residents for the Madonna Vasa Vasa. They’re not there for the traditional procession, but because they’re enacting a personal and collective emotion that spans the centuries. The statue of the Madonna (movable, like a puppet), emerging from Santa Maria di Betlem, advances in mourning through the city streets, searching for her Son, whom someone told her was alive. The Son, the Risen Christ, emerging from the Church of San Pietro, searches for his Mother, to announce that he has conquered death, to tell her that he is alive and present. The Madonna may not know it, but that black cloak bears the wound of every Modican and Sicilian mother, who has felt her heart torn by the “spartenza”—the yearning, pain, and resignation that comes from witnessing the departure, separation, farewell, or emigration of a child. And then, at noon sharp, the encounter: she runs, opens her arms, the cloak falls, the doves rise. The city erupts in tears and applause. That gesture captures the entire soul of Modica: sacred and visceral, theatrical and ritual. In the three kisses that the mother finally gives her son, every division is healed. The separation overgrows, the separation becomes an embrace. And everybody learns that nothing truly remains divided, because love is the strength to be there, to find each other, to start over. Together.
And when elsewhere Easter seems already bygone, in Modica there’s one day that endures, small but stubborn, like a loving echo of the celebration that just passed. It’s U Marti i l’Itria, the Tuesday of Idria: a ritual uniquely Modican yet brimming with authenticity, which takes place on the hill of the same name, where the little church embraces the ancient heart of the city. Simple folk, families, children, old friends gather to laugh, tell stories, and above all, savor cedri, or piretti, gigantic lemons with an edible peel, ancient fruits with a tart and authentic flavor like the land that nourishes them. Under the Itria sky, amid the scent of citrus fruits and the wind caressing the stones, a small celebration takes place, all our own: an Easter that refuses to end.
A few days later, another popular epiphany takes place: the Festival of Saint George, the knight who protects and guides. The statue doesn’t parade: it gallops, carried at a run through the city’s streets, both wide and narrow, in a crescendo that unites the sacred and the profane, body and soul. It is the race of the Modica soul, its determined step toward joy and belonging.
Then, at the beginning of summer, arrives the Festival of Saint Peter, on June 29th. It was once accompanied by the Santuna, twenty-four colossal statues of saints: they paraded like papier-mâché giants, solemn and spectacular. And today, as tradition is returning, the festival retains its power intact: stalls, voices, street food, impromptu encounters, tourists and Modicans mingling, amidst granitas, cotton candy, and that typical Modican snack of toasted and salted chickpeas (calia) and toasted and salted pumpkin seeds (simenza).
Finally, when the December air cools down and the baroque stones glow with warm lights like those of a nativity scene, Modica transforms into an open-air candies workshop: it’s time for ChocoModica, the festival celebrating its ancient, textured, aromatic chocolate. The streets of the center become a river of aromas, voices, and tastings. It’s not just flavor: it’s a theater of the palate and memory. Children’s workshops, shows, exhibitions, and guided tours crisscross the city like veins of sweetness. And between one bite and the next, you rediscover the vibrant soul of Modica, which has found its flag, its voice, its most intense accent in chocolate.
If you’d like to lose yourself in these rituals, we recommend you do so without hesitation. Because here, getting lost isn’t a sin: it’s a gift. To return. To start to feel again. To participate. To be part, even briefly, of a community that never forgets who it is.